Living Arts
Pilgrimage
Journeying to a Holy Place
by Elisa Cullaty
To remember her opens a wellspring that runs hidden and deep in my heart. To think of her brings warm tears to my eyes and an instant smile. A cozy feeling surrounds and supports me. I know I am home. I speak of Our Lady of Rocamadour in France, a black Madonna whose chapel is built high on a cliff. At night, the chapels and fortress glow with all the enchantment and wonder that Disney strove to capture in his Magic Kingdom. The lowest level of the cliff village is replete with boutiques, frozen in time, and offering French linens, choral hymns, and statues of Our Lady. Before I rose to the second level, I walked the cobblestones past storefronts with quaint painted shutters. Many pilgrims climbed the 223 steps on their knees to be greeted in a courtyard by chattering gargoyles that are only heard by those connected to the other worlds.
The entrance to Our Lady’s Chapel has a mural of rust-colored skeletons laughing and dancing, reminiscent of the Day of the Dead caricatures from Mexico. The Chapel is cool, dark, grounding, womb-like, and holy. Warm tears cascaded down my cheeks as I entered. In the customary fashion, I lit a white candle for Our Lady. I was told that she was the one who had gathered in spirit the sixteen pilgrims I traveled with on this journey six years ago through France.
While I sat before her, I was riveted to my seat, not mentally, as one might be at a lecture, but rather ethereally. It was as if pulleys held me to my chair. She had my complete attention, effortlessly. Even if I chose to move I would have fallen from the force of the energy. It was as strong as a waterfall—embracing, intense, palpable, direct, and true. We spoke together of many things such as my teaching work, and how to find courage and strength. She shared her wisdom, love, healing energy, and a deep sense of peace—and she was firm with her guidance.
I do not think that the Black Madonnas are all the same and they are not similar to Kali, the Hindu Goddess of destruction. Each Black Madonna may carry noticeable strength, yet they are as unique as each of us is unique.
Mary Magdalene likewise has been misunderstood. She is believed to be Jesus’ Bride, a healer and a whore. In “certain medieval traditions [it was believed that Magdalene] brought the Holy Grail, the child of Jesus from Jerusalem to France.” (Longing for Darkness: Tara and the Black Madonna: A Ten Year Journey, China Galland). Kathleen McGowan, author of The Expected One, believes Mary Magdalene brought the gospel written by Jesus to France. “The legacy of the Book of Love is one of the great hidden secrets of Christianity. That there was once a gospel written in the hand of Jesus is a concept that very few modern Christians have ever heard of.” (The Expected One, Kathleen McGowan)
I encountered Mary Magdalene at the Basilica dedicated to her in Vézelay, France. She shared that she carried the shame and guilt for all women and it was not hers. She teaches us that no one can take away our light. I did not know what to expect as I climbed down the dark stairwell into the crypt. As my eyes adjusted, I saw what appeared to be a small chapel. Chairs faced an empty space. Mary Magdalene’s relics were behind us. Once seated and still within, I realized Mary Magdalene was standing before us, illuminated. Her palms appeared to be holding stars that were radiating light toward all of us. Her love is gentle, constant, all encompassing, and sits like a throne in my heart.
To find the sacred space, we need to be still and quiet in our minds and our bodies. This is a natural part of human nature which often has been lost, forgotten and virtually unknown in our fast-paced culture with its chaotic bombardment of stimuli. In these challenging economic times, where most people are riddled with fear, it is important for us to deepen our connection with the unseen worlds to find a deeper sense of peace and clarity. “We need a place devoted to tranquility in a world that is always pushing us outward.” (Holy Personal: Looking for Small Private Places of Worship, Laura Chester)
Various spiritual teachers claim that we live in a special time where access to the Divine is easier than ever. The Marys are always there for us. Each one has a unique personality and energy offering love, healing, and support.
One way to deepen one’s faith and connection with the unseen world is to embark on a pilgrimage. According to Webster’s Dictionary, the definition of “pilgrimage” is a journey to a holy place. There are pilgrimages to many holy places, including Rome, Mecca, and Jerusalem. Regarding the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, Spain, and walking to El Camino…“at the height of [its] popularity, some half a million people annually traveled [it]…In recent years the pilgrimage to Santiago has enjoyed a great resurgence of interest. In 1982 only 3,500 pilgrims received official documentation at Santiago, but in 1999 roughly 100,000 would complete the journey.” (The Singular Pilgrim: Travels on Sacred Ground, Rosemary Mahoney) There are many reasons for embarking on a pilgrimage. “Many mystical experiences and miraculous healings throughout history have centered on devotion to Mary, in particular her alleged appearances in apparitions,” (Harper’s Encyclopedia of Mystical & Paranormal Experience, Rosemary Ellen Guiley) which caused millions to travel to these holy places such as Lourdes, France, and northern Mexico City. A pilgrimage “is done with the intent to find one’s deepest spiritual meaning and resolutions regarding conflicts in self.” (El Camino, Shirley MacLaine) For me, it is my love for the Marys and my knowing that they are real that leads me on my journeys. To be in their presence is healing and transformative. I would like for all women to share this experience and know of the support available to them. We are not alone.
Elisa Cullaty, MA, MSW is a teacher and creator of her own personal growth workshops as well as a counselor and intuitive reader. She combines her background in psychotherapy with her wisdom and studies in energy, intuition, and the Divine Feminine. Her passion is to teach and lead pilgrimages. She may be reached at 760.489.2735.